Garage Door Opener Repair
Opener hums, clicks or runs but the door won't move? We repair motors, gears, belts, boards and sensors for all major brands.
Garage Door Help, 24/7
Same-day appointments and round-the-clock emergency service across all 50 of our cities — with one flat price approved by you before any work begins. Tell the dispatcher what your door is doing and the right parts ride along on the first truck.
When the opener fails, the symptoms can be misleading: a motor that hums but doesn't move the door, a door that starts then reverses, remotes that work from the driveway but not the street, or a unit that's simply dead. Some of those are opener problems. Some are door problems the opener is reporting — a broken spring or seized roller will make a healthy opener look broken. Our opener repair service starts by separating the two, so you never pay for a motor when the real fault is a $90 part.
We repair all major opener brands — LiftMaster, Chamberlain, Genie, Craftsman, Linear and others — including chain, belt, screw and wall-mount (jackshaft) models. Circuit boards, gear kits, drive belts, trolleys, sensors and remote systems are standard truck stock.
Signs You Need Garage Door Opener Repair
- Motor hums or clicks but the door doesn't move
- Door opens partway, stops, or reverses for no reason
- Opener works from the wall switch but not the remote
- Grinding noise from the opener rail or housing
- The light blinks repeatedly and the door won't close
- Opener runs but the trolley doesn't travel
- Complete silence — no power response at all
- Door closes then bounces back open at the floor
The Most Common Opener Failures We Fix
Stripped gears top the list on older chain-drive openers: the nylon drive gear wears smooth over 10-15 years, the motor runs, and nothing moves. Logic boards fail next — often after power surges and lightning — taking remotes and sensors offline with them. Then come worn belts and chains, failed start capacitors, burnt-out motors on overworked doors, and the humble safety sensor: misaligned or sun-blinded photo-eyes cause more 'broken opener' calls than any internal fault.
Each has a distinct signature, and an experienced technician can usually name the failure from your description on the phone. On site, we test the door's balance first (an opener straining against a dead spring dies young), then isolate the opener fault and quote the repair flat.
Sensors, Remotes and Keypads
Since 1993, federal law has required photo-eye sensors on every opener, and they cause a large share of service calls: a bumped bracket, a dirty lens, a nicked wire, or bright sunlight flooding one eye. We realign, clean, repair wiring or replace sensors, then verify the auto-reverse with a physical obstruction test before we leave.
Remote and keypad problems are usually simpler — batteries, lost programming after a power outage, or interference from a new LED bulb in the opener housing (a surprisingly common culprit). We reprogram your devices, clear stale codes for security, and can add modern rolling-code remotes to older units where compatible.
When Repair Stops Making Sense
An opener that needs a board and a gear kit on a 18-year-old unit is telling you something. If the repair approaches half the cost of a new opener, the unit lacks modern safety features, or the motor itself is failing, replacement is usually the smarter money — and we'll show you both quotes side by side.
What we won't do is declare a healthy opener dead. Many units brought to us as 'needs a new opener' leave with a gear kit or a sensor alignment and years of life left. Diagnosis first, verdict second — that's the order that saves you money.
The Surge Protector Conversation
If your opener's board failed, ask what killed it before paying to replace it — because in storm country the answer is usually a power surge, and an unprotected new board is exposed to the same fate. A garage-door-specific surge protector costs about $20-$30, plugs in at the outlet in seconds, and is the highest-value accessory in the entire opener category. We mention it on every board job; whether you buy it from us or a hardware store is genuinely irrelevant.
The same logic applies to the battery in your remote and the bulb in the opener: small electrical details cause a disproportionate share of opener grief. A good repair visit sweeps them all — board protected, remotes tested, bulb checked for the interference-prone cheap LEDs — so the system you get back is more reliable than the one that failed.
What Affects Your Price
Three things move a garage door opener repair quote inside the range below: your door's size and weight (a heavy insulated double door needs stronger parts and more labor than a light single), the specification of the replacement parts themselves — standard versus high-cycle or premium grades — and timing, since after-hours emergency visits can add a fee that is always confirmed before dispatch. What should never affect it: how the visit is going. The quote is built from the inspection, named parts and published ranges — for example, opener diagnosis sits at $50-$100 while safety sensor replacement runs $85-$200 — and once you approve it, it is the price.
How the Service Works
Balance test first
We verify the door itself isn't the real problem before touching the opener.
Electrical & mechanical diagnosis
Power, board, capacitor, gears, drive and sensors tested in sequence.
Flat quote
Repair price (or repair-vs-replace comparison) approved by you before work.
Repair & reprogram
Failed components replaced; remotes, keypad and travel/force settings set to spec.
Safety verification
Photo-eye and auto-reverse tests performed and demonstrated.
Garage Door Opener Repair Costs (2026)
| Job | Typical Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Opener diagnosis | $50-$100 | Credited toward repair in most cases |
| Gear / sprocket replacement | $120-$250 | Common on older chain-drive units |
| Logic board replacement | $150-$300 | Includes programming remotes & keypad |
| Belt or chain replacement | $100-$220 | Restores smooth, quiet travel |
| Safety sensor replacement | $85-$200 | Aligned and tested to federal standards |
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does garage door opener repair cost?
Most opener repairs run $75-$300. Sensor work sits at the low end, gear kits in the middle, and logic boards at the top. You approve a flat quote after diagnosis — and if replacement is the better value, we'll tell you.
Why does my opener hum but not move the door?
The usual causes are a stripped drive gear, a failed start capacitor, or a door problem (broken spring or seized roller) the opener can't overcome. All are diagnosable in minutes on site.
My door reverses right before it closes. What's wrong?
Most often misaligned or dirty safety sensors, or travel/force settings that need adjustment. Less commonly, a binding door. It's a safety system doing its job — worth fixing properly rather than bypassing.
Do you repair my opener brand?
Almost certainly. We service LiftMaster, Chamberlain, Genie, Craftsman, Linear, Marantec, Sommer and most other residential brands, including older models.
Can you make my old opener work with my phone?
Often, yes — many openers can gain smartphone control with an add-on hub, and newer replacement openers have it built in. Ask the technician; we'll check compatibility on the spot.
How do I get an exact price for garage door opener repair?
Call (210) 964-8892 and describe the problem. A technician inspects the door, names the failed parts, and quotes one flat price before any work begins — opener repair typically runs $75-$300 depending on the failed component. There is no obligation to proceed, and the quote doesn't change silently if you do.
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Learn more about commercial garage door repair →Helpful guides
- Garage Door Opener Repair Cost
- Garage Door Repair Cost Guide 2026
- Garage Door Won't Close? 9 Causes, Safe Checks & When to Call a Pro
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Same-day appointments and 24/7 emergency service across all 50 of our service cities. Upfront price before work starts — no surprises on the invoice.
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